November - December 1997
© François Schotte
Lufthansa flight takes off from Orly to Francfort
, first step to the Route de l'Inde.
The flight was without any problem, with reasonable comfort on board. Just a light
sandwich and coffee were served.The olden luxury has disappeared. Upon our arrival
to Francfort, the runaways were coated with fog, fortunately the automatic landing
system was employed which helped landing safely in spite of non visibility.
The Francfort airport is quite big. The A330 was running for about 10 minutes
before reaching its parking emplacement. It took us as much time with the bus
to arrive at the airport and twice as much to reach the boarding gate for the
connecting flight. Travel broadens the mind but tires shoulders especially with
heavy luggage. I never realised when carrying heavy luggage. It served me of lesson
to play the gentleman ! Luckily Lufthansa has imposed certain rules regarding
the luggage, otherwise the travel would have taken end at the beginning.
The second step of the travel, Francfurt-Delhi started at 1.00 p.m. The punctuality
of Lufthansa was respected despite the number of passengers foreseen for the 747
flight.
My left neighbour was Indo-American. Originated from Jaipur in Rajasthan, he is
a surgeon at Long Island; A real TV serial . We were talking during most of the
flight time, thus avoiding to watch the Spielbergian dinosaurus fighting on the
screen. Two meals were served on board, both of them were insipid. Our german
cousins have nothing to envy the great britanny meals. We were vivaciously waiting
to reach Delhi !
Time went fast and it was 1.30 a.m at Dehli, when the flight 747 landed on the
indian soil. We spent some hours to pick up the luggage (thanks to Lufthansa)
then went to the money exchanger counter (Thomas Cook was the only one among exchange
offices to accept my travellers cheque in french francs, with a good exchange
rate (6,25 Rps instead 6,10 Rps elsewhere). For information Rps is the indian
currency called rupees. I got plenty of 50 Rps notes against 1000 Francs.
Travel certainly broadens the mind but deforms the portfolio
To reach the Hotel, I chose the safiest way, the Pre-Paid taxi. You pay your travel
in advance at the counter. It's a bit expensive but avoids discussion and discourage
the driver to use the classical " the hotel where you want to go, does'nt
exist anymore but I can get you an excellent one in lieu"
Thus you also avoid fierceness of taxi drivers and rickshaw pullers. The driving
time between airport and hotel is of half an hour and the fare is 195 Rps the
equivalent of 30 FRF. The town is changing year by year. Not a slumb could be
seen, but new buildings have been raised and sites for further constructions
were foreseen.
But shanty towns could be noticed quite away from town centre where tourists
are present.
The taxi driver seems to be asleep. At two times, the front of the Ambassador
(indian version of the British "Landmaster") avoided in just pounding
with a lorry. Not far from the door of India, at a crossroad, a car could be
seen on the roof of a house but the occupants of the car were still inside and
people do not seem to be in a panic to help the people get out of the car and
call for an ambulance. It was not at all a shooting for "Mercedes A"
advertising.
Road accidents are current in India and the parking condition is not of security
at all. Cars without lights, exhaust pipes sending out thick smoke and, dubious
breaks are frequent. There is a huge commerce for the electric cars, and other
centers for technical controls, but no government encouragement for buying new
cars at reasonable rates.
At the arrival near Connaught Place, is the Hotel Fifty Five, a classical one
: the driver not knowing the address questioned a rickshaw puller who proposes
to accompany till the hotel in return for 10 Rps. In fact, it's only a 20 meters
ahead and the driver who was too sleepy didn't notice it. In front of the Fifty
Five, a classical way of fooling. The gardian told us that the hotel is closed
and full and it's better to check in with the hotel he suggests. After a firm
discussion, the torrent ended and we reached the reception hall. The waiter
gave the key. And goodness, our stay started.
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Qutb Minar
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We
began the day walking at the search of a restaurant for a pleasant breakfast,
and our choice went for Niruala, a tea-room where fortunated youngsters from Delhi
meet each other. Then we started to visit Qutb Minar 3 miles away on the southern
part of Delhi and it took us 20 minutes to reach by rickshaw.
During the ride, we could realize the gravity of the pollution in Delhi. The air
is so unbreathable, that the french pick recorded in Paris during the month of
August 1997 could be considered as joyfull afternoons of countryside. Urban ecology
must be developed in India on a priority basis. Qutb Minar could be seen far off.
This minaret of 72 meters was built in 1199 with coranic verses scarved on i
Owing to renovation, visiting the Minaret was not possible. But near this Minaret,
we could notice the basement for a construction of a similar Minaret but two times
higher than the moghol masterpiece. Anyhow, this gigantic project has not been
achieved as yet.
Another unusal sight : an iron pillar which has never got rusted. People believe
that by joining both hands backwards around this pillar, wishes could be fulfilled.
A task that none has succeeded. It is not enough to have long arm only in politics.
Just note for the tintinophile that Qutb Minar was of reference in" Tintin
in Tibet" while our heroes landed New Delhi.
We visited the Cultural Center of Triveni located at Barakhamba Road. This center
could be found attractive with its modern art galleries, representing modern
paintings and sculpture of indian arts, and with a cute restaurant situated
near the ground, where normally students rehearse songs and dance. In lieu,
there was an exposure of art conducted by Kanwal Soni, an artist from New Delhi.
We went shopping at the Palika market, on the southern part of Connaught Place,
where digital records of indian classical musics could be bought at 70Rs. Then
the ritual visit to Bata Shoe Market to get a pair of 'Hush Puppies', which
is quite comfortable. The recent design for this year, was the air cushion in
the sole like the tennis shoes.
Then we had dinner at the "Embassy", a well frequented restaurant
specialized in business meal at Connaught Place. Samosas are excellent and the
King Fisher always fresh. From the top floor we could have a complete outlook
over the liveness of the building.
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Howrah bridge
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Fairlawn Hôtel
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At
4.45 a.m, taxi was waiting at the hotel to drive us to the Domestic Airport. The
drive was calm while New Delhi was still asleep.
Once in the airport at 5.30 am, there was such a crowd that we had to wait long,
before checking the luggage for the flight scheduled at 7.00 am through Indian
Airlines for Calcutta. As soon as these formalities were accomplished, a quarter
of an hour was letf to have breakfast at the first floor, in a restaurant which
was quiet contrary to the counters of check-in.
After a smooth flight, we landed at Calcutta. The airport was clean and quite
new, without crowd, we couldn't imagine that Calcutta has come back to a certain
serenity.
But the taxi drive proved the contrary. Comparing to Delhi and Bombay which have
both developped enormously the tourism public relations scheme, Calcutta remains
closer to the opinion that its town procures. While visiting the railway station
of Howrah by crossing across the well known bridge of India, we would be convinced
that a lot has got to be done in India on a hygienic basis.
One million people who cross this bridge everyday with vehicles, is an indescriptive
mess. A bad time for the lungs. Photographing this bridge is prohibited. Therefore,
we could be proud of having photographied this monument.
We have chosen the Fairlawn Hotel in the Sudder Street. a pleasant hotel with
olden days charm. Ms Violet Smith is the owner of this hotel which was bought
by his father in 1936. When India was free in 1947, she didn' t wish to go back
to England and she kept the property in order to recall the period of British
Colonial empire. The hostel suggests a full boarding at 50 $ for 2, with meals
at fixed hours and a menu without choice for which the chief waiter informs proudly
the guests with the help of a gong.
Food is reasonable and the atmosphere
quite social where guests could eat around large tables sharing their meals.
The evening food is served in two different places. Oberoi suggests three big
restaurants, expensive for an indian standard with a totaly luxury. Unfortunately,
it was full. we took the aperitif during the Happy Hour then went to the Peter
Cat Restaurant.
Very pleasant place and chilled restaurant,(air conditioned at the extreme),
the mutton masala was excellent. The price was at a cheap rate when compared
to the comfort and the quality of the meal (360 Rs for two).
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Victoria Memorial
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The
day started with a meeting as India can always provide. While having our breakfast
at Flurrys, we started a conversation with a calcutta originated man who speaks
french very fluently. His name was Animesh Roy and he has learned french in the
university and attended classes at the Alliance Française. He spoke about
his readings : Gide, Camus, Baudelaire. Then, he took advantage of weekly shows
to watch french movies at the Alliance Française. Film making is his job.
Animesh Roy is a producer of documentaries and company movies. His producing company
is named Cinecorp. He proposed us to visit his studio and left his address.
We went to the Victoria Memorial. This monument in white marble of Rajasthan origin
has been erected by Lord Curzon as a rival masterpiece of the Taj Mahal in Agra.
Monument in memory of the Queen Victoria who died in 1901, this monument conceals
of remambrance from Raj British Empire of India in the days of its glory. A statue
of her majesty is raised in the entrance. This statue is imposing and its appearance
represents the hustle and bustle of Calcutta, the whole surrounded by water. We
were not able to visit this memorial, Mondays being closing days of all museums
in India.
After the Victorial Memorial, we went to Park Street by walk till the english
cemetery.
Left for long years without care taking , it has become a playground for children
who play cricket by hiting the ball between the tombs of dignitaries belonging
to the British Empire who died in India.
We could note that most of the defunts are quite young. We could easily understand
that at that period, filled with malaria, thiphoïd fever and over consuption
of alcohol, life time was not longer. This place procures a certain calm and is
full of trees and plants avoiding noises caused by the traffic in the centre town
of Calcutta.
In the evening, we went back to Peter Cat to try the Sizzling, meal being served
on a very hot stone plate. The meal being extemely copious, we had left a part
of it.
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Rickshaw in the streets of Calcutta
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Marble Palace
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We
had luckily not finished our sizzling mixed grill. We
had to tolerate horrible gastric pain during the whole night and in the morning
we woke up vomitting.
We made great efforts to visit the "Marble Palace" in spite or our fever
and stiffness. At this stage we prefered to hire a taxi. During the long drive,
we passed through non residential areas of Calcutta enabling us to cheer the bustle
in the streets.
The rickshaws pulled by men could be noticed with a sleigh bell by the help of
which they inform their presence in order to pass by. Lot of traffic jam could
be seen, and rare are the holy cows or bullock-carts as may be the case for other
certain regions of India.
The driver as usual didn't know the way to "Marble Palace" and kept
stopping quite often near rickshaw pullers to enquire. Once he tried to drop us
at a marble graver's shop (since he recorded the word marble only), but finally
he reached near the palace.
we walked into the palace with the pass we had fortunately claimed for, earlier
with the tourism office.
This palace was built by Raja (king) Rajendra Mullick Bahadur, a well fortunated
and esthete king. This palace has achieved its construction in 1835 and is without
any doubt the most showy and imposing building of Calcutta. In fact, this palace
is filled with bronze statues and paintings of Robens, Murillo, Titien (that some
pretend to be originals and others as reproductions, anyhow we could not make
the difference) at a retired corner where european arts are condensed.
Cristal lusters and candelabras might once have illuminated this place, but at
present they could be found next to the Queen Victoria among normal lightings
but still remarkable in the vestals.
In a country where sex is often absent, this king had defied everything to the
surprise of his visitors, who normally have a weakness for white flesh.We ended
our visit by the Palace garden ressembling to a mini zoo, with a fountain in the
middle, thus refreshing the whereabouts. A pelican and swans appear majestically
on the greenyard which borders the coping.
We could see women washing their clothes with unclean water, whereas men perform
their ablution.
A remarkable thing regarding this palace is that its owners serve freely and everyday
at noon 1000 to 4000 meals just at the entrance of this Palace.
Our sickness has hardly improved. Till the beginning of the afternoon our fever
has not passed and we prefered to sleep, since its the best remedy.
A 17 hours sleep was disturbed by the surprise visit of a printer with whom I
have placed an order for visiting cards and who has apparently finished his job
24 hours earlier. His work was very satisfactory. Despite the european spelling
distinction, E-mail syntax and other URL, there was no error committed. A quantity
of 200 cards was charged for 300 Rps (equivalent of 48 FRF) (definitively costly
for Indians)
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Madras
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The
unexpectable fast of yesterday evening increased our hunger. At 6.30 am we were
out for Flurys (restaurant) seeking copious breakfast.
We then returned to visit the Victoria Memorial. On the whole, this site does
not need to be visited and our souvenir of this place is not at all unforgetable.
We then went to the airport for the Madras flight. The flight was quite emotional.
20 minutes ahead of landing Madras airport, we had to cross over a thundery storm.
Lightnings could be seen from the Airbus which was shaking like a coconut ready
to fall from its tree.
The pilot announced that due to this storm and the reduced visibility, the plane
could not land the Madras airport and was scheduled to Bangalore.
At 10 pm we landed at the empty tarmac runaway of Bangalore airport. At he hedge
of the runaway we were waiting for more than an hour for a passenger steps to
be brought, but later on we learned that this delay was due to the strike organised
by the staff member of the Airport and Air Traffic controllers.
The landing was very sharp. In the airport there was a big waiting queue. Flight
announcement then their cancellation were made consequently At seveveral times
we were told that hotel accomodation will be provided till the morning flight
to Madras.
Finally at 1h a.m, we were asked to fetch a new boarding card and to proceed for
the security check. But this time, there was no cancellation foreseen and the
flight Bangalore-Madras was without further difficulties.
At 1.45 a.m, we landed Madras airport completely washed by the heavy rain. We
were told in the airport that the whole city of Madras is entirely flooded by
the heavy monsoon rain, recorded during the last 12 hours and snagged water measuring
more than a meter of hight.
It was very hard to get a taxi since the traffic was highly disrupted. The counter
for prepaid taxi was closed. We decided to spend the night in the airport hotel
but there was no rest-room left. Every indian airport and railway stations are
set out of rooms for passengers, with moderate charges.By chance, a taxi driver,
a bit smart, approached me. It seems that he has achieved to extirpate his car
from the congestion of traffic not far from the airport.
After a difficult bargain (on his advantage) we got into the car parked under
a torrential rain and were driven to the hotel where we phoned to check if our
room was still available.
The trip turns out to be dramatic. The road is transformed into a swimming pool.
The taxi moves in spite of irregular raining. repeatedly, the driver seemed to
be a former pilot of the Grand Prix de Monaco, with slick tyres under the rain,
drives trough an apocalyptique Madras. We were not feeling comfortable, but by
the grace of Shiva, we arrived sound and safe.
We were waiting in the reception
hall of the hotel which was darkened by the electricity failure. Instead of
handing over the key and postpone for the next morning the filling formalities,
they made us wait till the electricity was on. This annoyed us a lot, since
we were quite eager to rest in bed.
| Thursday November 27 - Tuesday December
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Bullock-carts from Pondicherry
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After
this bitter experience, leaving Madras for Pondicherry was quite pleasant.
After 3hours of bus ride, we arrived at Pondicherry that we have found a bit wet
due to the rain but not at all flooded like in Madras.
It is unecessary to detail our stay in Pondicherry, as the previous days, different
rubrics of our server Pondichery.com were available to provide you remarks and
souvenirs that we have experienced. We will just give you our global opinion.
Pondicherry remains still a charming place: The east side of the town (which borders
the Indian Ocean) also called the white part, and the west side called black part.
A canal separates the town in two parts.. Difference being, the east side which
is the old french area, could be found a bit quiet with a favourable atmosphere
for nostalgies, and the west part being noisy, even violent due to the traffic
jam, and where prevails the law of influent people.
A common thing with both sides : dirtiness. Having travelled a lot in India, we
have rarely seen such a dirty town (except may be in Calcutta), where the roads
could be transformed into dustbins.
Everybody is used to live like in the Middle Age, unloading garbages in the streets
The visit of the dustmen is not regular.
Our trip to Pondicherry was an opportunity to meet people. The most significant
one was our meeting with Amalor Arago, Director of Trait-d'Union. For reference,
you could find the origin of this newspaper in the server Pondichery.com.
With his cheer humour and a grand sensitivity, he could be compared to the well-known
indian writer from Madras, RK Narayan. With plenty of jokes, Amalor Arago gave
us an exact picture of the life in Pondicherry, and the rise and falls of this
town.
He told us that many people from Pondicherry long to succeed in France to earn
six times more than in their country but finally live in bad conditions. Amalor
told the story of an advocate gone to succeed in France and who couldn't valid
his degree, was finally brought to work as watchman or storekeeper.
Amalor Arago with certain personal experience explained us the contradiction of
this town, without mayor elected since a long time, sinking like a drunk boat.
The dirtiness of the town which shocked us when we came to Pondicherry could be
now understood. Corruption is frequent and doesn't help people.
Amalor Arago seems to be worried about his successor for the newspaper. This newspaper
mostly read by youngsters turns to become a bit older. The themes seem to be literally
oriented but does not improve the sales. Let's wish to M. Amalor Arago success
for his publishing.Our conversation with Amalor Arago was about our preference
for french litterature. He noticed that several unpublished articles were translated
during the last months in the Trait-d'Union, especially those of Narayanan.
The day after, we had the pleasant surprise of Mr Arago's messenger's presence
in our hostel who remitted copies of the newspapers containing his subjects. Thanks
once again M. Arago.
Our trip to Pondicherry was an opportunity to meet Françoise L'Hernault
working for the "Ecole française d'Extrême Orient", archeologue,
settled since 25 years in Pondicherry, and who gave us interesting information
on books regarding Pondicherry.
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Chinese fishing nets in Cochin
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We
continued our journey after a stay of six days in Pondicherry. To reach Cochin,
we were thinking of several ways: by bus, by taxi, by train or by plane.Travelling
by train seemed to be too long (36 hours), bus needed to be changed three times.
We thought of hiring a taxi : 3600 Rs for a journey of 10 hours to cover 615 kms.
We were reluctant in the beginning and finally we took the following solution
: by taxi to reach back Madras then by plane from Madras to Cochin. It is the
expensive choice (7850 Rps) but safier and less tiring. We were worried that it
might rain in Kerala and the roads would not be clear.
At 7.00 a.m, a taxi came to fetch us at the Park Guest House. This taxi was not
older than 20 years and the driver seemed to be seriou, comparing to frights that
the streets of Pondicherry could provide.
It took us 2h30 to cover the distance of 165 km and to reach the airport. We went
by narrow roads with less traffic, thus enabling us once again to notice that
this part of India is mainly agricultural. Landscapes were wonderful, with plenty
of ricefields and salterns.
We arrived much earlier at the airport of Madras, which seemed safier than the
late journey with riks of missing schedule flight.
Flight from Madras to Cochin was perfect and the plane landed in the isle of Willingdon
as scheduled.
We have chosen a small guest house in the Cochin fort, and we were driven to by
a taxi. The site is attractive just three hundred meters ahead where the famous
fishermen with chinese fishing nets represent till date Cochin. The guest room
is quite small and particularly badly aerated and ressembles much to a sweating
room.
In order to avoid mosquitos (since they are a lot in this coastal area), we have
foreseen some anti mosquito provision as electrical insecticidal which is very
efficient and some oinment which chases the surviving mosquitos. These two remedies
were particularly efficient, and we had calm nights.
At the end of the afternoon, we had a long walk by the sea shore. The fishermen
were at their return from fishing by the sunset. A number of boats with blue sails
were rigging to the shore. The fishing seems to be enormous. Once the boats were
on the shore, they were all slided on wooden rollers fixed on the landside.
A bit further, were layed the chinese fishing nets, sort of gorgeous nets hanged
on the poles which help water to enter and to exit regularly during high tide.
This is being processed by 4 or 5 fishermen.
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Repairing fishing net in Cochin
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To
reach Ernakulum, the main part of Cochin, we began to hire a boat returning from
the willingdon island, where we landed the previous day. Our boat passed by a
lump of splashing dolphins.
On the boat, we met a passenger of Anvers origin, who is coming for the 6th time
in India within 3 months. She is coming from Rwanda where she works for the Red
Cross. She briefed us the horrors of Rwanda, and we have realised that the lack
of certain comfort in India is nothing comparing to her comments on Rwanda. We
spent the whole day, by sailing on the "backwaters".
The boat is a long canoe with a capacity of receiving ten passengers and guided
by venisian styled "gondoliers" who with the help of big pole insert
into the water, not to deep, thus enabling to accelerate our embarcation. We were
travelling for about 4 hours by small canals throughout the village. We could
sometime meet a gathering of families bathing with a water compared to which the
"Seine" could appear to be of mineral water, brought straight from the
himalayan mountains.
At midday, we made a halt near a local fast-food. The waiter climbed a coconut
tree with empty hands and returned back with coconuts. He opened the coconut from
the upper side in order to insert a straw and taste the delicious coconut water.
Once coconut was empty, the waiter cuts the coconut with a sharp stroke and we
tasted the coconut.
After this break, we have reached the hedge of "backwaters" through
the tide by butressing against the poles.
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Back Waters
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This
day, we shall concentrate by visiting different islands, but before starting,
we went to try the buffet served in the restaurant " le coq d'or"
at n° 3563 Mahatma Gandhi Road(on the downfloor at Hotel International).
For 150 Rs, this buffet covers quite completely the Kerala Cuisine, spices including.
We have tasted the "Seafood Gratine". A remarkable preparation of
one of the best scallop shell gratines. We have chosen the Brule Cream Pie for
dessert which was succulent. The restaurant is well maintained and clients at
noon are mainly on business banquets. The head of this restaurant is M. Nadakumar
P.S.
The excursion of Islands, starts at Sealord Jetty at Ernakulam. We began for
the first 20 minutes travel the north east part of Cochin, to visit the Jewish
Synagogue. The jewish community of Cochin dates of Jewish emigrants who left
Palestine 2 thousand years ago. By lapse of time this community has reduced
in numbers and only 20 members are left as on today.
The original synagogue was built
in 1568, destroyed by the portuguese meantime, then rebuilt in 1664 when Cochin
was taken over by the Dutch. The particularity of this Synagogue is that, the
floor is made of ceramic tiles brought from Canton (China) in the middle of
the 18th century. And none of these tiles are similar.
After visiting the Synagogue, we sailed again to anchor near the chinese fishing
nets to visit the "San Fransisco" church. It is the oldest european
church which was built in India in 1503, by the initiative of french priest
who were accompanied by Pedro Alvarez Cabral. The initial construction was of
wood, but it was rebuilt with bricks in the middle of the 16th century.
Vasco de Gama, the first european who reached India with his sail boat, after
having misturned the Cap Horn, was buried in India for about 15 years, before
being brought back to Portugal. The technical aeration system employed in this
church is quite ingenious.
After the Cochin fort, we sailed to Bolgatty island. Despite our efforts in
dumping the water, we could not appear to notice any dolphin on the surface
like the second day of our sailing.
We were disappointed by the Bolgatty Island. The palace transformed into a luxury
hotel, but mentioned as a curiosity to be visited is in vain. The surroundings
are quite normal. Bungalows for honey moons were constructed, which look either
like olden flying socers of the 50's, and spoil completely the nature.After
visiting Bogatty, we returned to Ernakulum from where we were scheduled to Cochin
by boat. We had dinner in the evening at the restaurant of Hotel Abad situated
in the Chullickal area. To reach over there, we had a journey of half an hour
by rickshaw accross the popular areas on the opposite side of Cochin Fort. Festival
atmosphere was met all around the township. In fact, it was a hindu divinity
celebration and all the squares were illuminated and decorated consequently.
We did not at all regret the move because the dinner was excellent : seafood
soup : seafood chowder (30 Rps) followed by tiger prawns (big shrimps 125 Rps),
to end with custard caramel. The restaurant was filled essentially by families
for whom Friday evening is a feast day.
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Kathakali
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Saturday
morning, we visited the Dutch Palace, named as " Matancherry Palace".
It was built by the Portuguese in 1555 then offered to the Raja (king) of Cochin
in order to obtain his authorization for trading. After the renovation of this
palace in 1663, the name was changed into Dutch palace. We could admire the wonderful
collection of palanquins, ceremonial dresses and wall frescos describing the Mahabharata.
We were not far from the Jewish square and we decided to go round the the foreign
antique dealers. A plenty of antique furniture and doors could be found, decorated
with sculpture, and it was hard to believe the age that the antique dealers could
pretend for their articles.
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Malabar house Residency
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Cathédrale de Cochin
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We
started the day by discovering without hurry the coastal part of the Cochin
Fort. Hasardously, we noticed during our visit the Malabar House Residency.
It's a wonderful property of 250 century old which was bought by a german antiquaire
in order to renove it into a magnificant and luxury hotel residence. The manager
proudly accompanied us to the most beautiful room. The entrance is provided
with a somptuous view alongside the mezzanine floor. The room is furnished entirely
with furnitures worthy of the best museums. The bathroom is very spacious. The
bath tub is fixed in an angle giving the way out to a balcony on 3 sides. Please
note the restaurant menu is also rich composed by the italian chief Jiju. Some
of the items from the "carte" :
- Starter :
. Tempura Terra E Mare (prawn, squid and vegetables dipped in butter and crispy
fried - 120Rps)
. Chhora Varatharachathu (tuna fish fried with coarsely ground coconut - 80
Rps)
- Meals :
. Calmari Ripieni (quid stuffed with seafood, served with toast and salad -
100 Rps)
. Meen Manga Moily (Chunks of seer fish ser8ved i a mild coconut curry - 130
Rps)
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Marine Drive - Bombay
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Malabar
house Redidency Cathedral of Cochin
Marine Drive - Bombay
We planned to travel further north with a stop over. Therefore, we took a flight
from Cochin to Mumbai then another one at the end of the day from Mumbai to
Aurangabad. Alliance Air was the company proposed for these two destinations.
A perfect in-flight service and very punctual. Since 4 years Indian government
has authorised private air companies to operate in land flights.
Several companies are still fighting for a part of this huge market monopolised
by the public owned Company, Indian Airlines.
Due to this competition, we can notice that great efforts were employed to improve
the quality fo the service in general and each company try their best to satisfy
the customers.
Punctuality being their obsession, we could say that Air France Europe has a
lot to learn from indians.
The stop over in Mumbai lasted for about 4 hours. In a year's time, this city
has shadded off. The drive from the airport "Santa Cruz" (Northern
Mumbai) to centre town lasted some miles and the shaddy towns alongside the
roads are worst than those of Calcutta. The number of beggars at each crossroad
have highly increased. This is our sixth journey to Bombay which has changed
its name into Mumbay to indianas. It's quite strange this time, we have a feeling
like this town has a bit backwarde, is this opinion due to the end of rainy
season encouraging urban population to exile.
During this halt, we seased this opportunity to make a hotel reservation in
the centre town. We chose the one we book-in every year, the "Sea Green
South" located at the Marine Drive and skirting the bay, not far from the
gate of India. This hotel is at reasonable price providing all comforts and
cleanliness is above expectation.
We reached Aurangabad at 7.00 p.m. We stayed in a small hotel called "Shree
Maya" quite confortable but not very clean. This hotel is not far from
the Tourism Office of Maharastra (MTDC).
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Allora
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We
tried the Food Lover just in front of MTDC Holiday camp on the Railway station
Road. The surroundings is quite pleasant.
A big shaw hut, with hard-packed surface and a coloured lighting indo-chinese
menu. that we found copious. As a dessert, we have chosen excellent ice-creams
(just try ice-cream with hot chocolate 25 Rs. Generally, nice food but without
much choice).
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Ajunta
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We
then went discovering Ajunta. 2 hours travel in MTDC bus with marvellous landscape
but roads were bit jerky. The trip went off without incident and we arrived
in a marvellous depth place next to a river. The cavernous mountain conceals
at least twenty caves with paints and lower relief. The site discovered at the
end of 19th century by an english tiger hunter has since been preserved during
the year twenties. A big part of the frescos have been damaged by the erosion,
monsoom and pillaging but the site prevails to be of fabulous treasury.
We must not miss the particularity of the buddah with three expressions. From
the angle, it is lightened; it expression turns alternatively from the feeling
of smiling to the feeling of seriousness. One must see the fresco of the woman
with the necklace of pearls which gives reflects from the mirror in which she
looks through. The 3D effect is absolutely amazing.
It is necessary, if we want to appreciate our visit, to be accompanied by a
local guide because the site is full of subtilities that only the help of a
specialist could allow us to discover them.
In the evening, we dined at Mingling in Janka Road, a well reputed chinese restaurant
in Aurangabad. After all, we can confirm that its reputation is not overated.
Concerning menu, we have noticed and tasted:
For chinese soups :
- noodle soup
- sweet corn asparages chicken (40 Rps)
For the meals :
- roasted lamb Honk Kong style (55 Rps)
- roasted chicken canton style (70 Rps)
The cooking is extremely refined and sauces were particularly light. In dessert
:
- hot fudge nut sundae (nut ice-cream with hot chocolate)
An excellent address to be noted at the top of the list while visiting Aurangabad.
After the dessert, the visitor's book was proposed. As usual, suggestions suceeded
between a nice meal, an easy humour and sarcasm could be found quite unfair.
One of the best chinese restaurant in India.
| Thursday 11 -Saturday December 13 |
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François Schotte
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We
came back to Mumbai (formerly Bombay) to end our trip. Mumbai is a big place for
shopping.
Textes et Images © Schotte
Stephen- Schotte François - 1998.